Notebook / Guide
Engineered or solid?
Both are real wood on top. The difference is what lies beneath — and how the floor behaves when the seasons change.
If you are choosing an oak floor, this is usually the first real decision. It matters more than the colour, because it decides where the floor can go and how long it can be renewed.
How they are made
- Solid wood boards are a single piece of timber, top to bottom — typically around 18–20 mm thick.
- Engineered wood boards have a real hardwood top layer (the wear layer, often 3–6 mm) bonded to a core of plywood or softwood laid in cross-directions.
From above, a good engineered board and a solid board look the same. The difference is in how they move.
Stability
Wood takes on and releases moisture as humidity changes, so it swells and shrinks — mostly across its width. A solid board moves freely; the cross-layered core of an engineered board resists that movement. That is why engineered boards can be made wider and longer without cupping, and why they are the usual recommendation for:
- underfloor heating;
- concrete slabs and ground floors;
- rooms with big seasonal swings in humidity;
- very wide planks.
Refinishing and lifespan
Solid boards can be sanded many times over their life, which is why century-old floors can still be restored. An engineered board can be sanded as many times as its wear layer allows — a thin layer may allow none, a 4–6 mm layer usually allows two or three full sandings. With an oiled finish, many repairs need no sanding at all.
Installation
Solid boards are normally nailed or glued to a timber subfloor or joists. Engineered boards can be glued, nailed, or laid “floating” over an underlay, which makes them more flexible for renovations and over existing floors.
Which one should you choose?
| Situation | Better choice |
|---|---|
| Underfloor heating | Engineered |
| Concrete slab, basement or ground floor | Engineered |
| Timber joists in a stable, dry house | Either; solid is traditional |
| Very wide or long planks | Engineered |
| Restoring or matching an old floor | Solid |
| A floor to last generations with many sandings | Solid, or engineered with a thick wear layer |
Whatever you choose, let the boards acclimatise in the room as the manufacturer advises, and keep indoor humidity reasonably steady. More on room-by-room choices in choosing a floor, room by room.
Questions
Engineered and solid wood, answered.
Is engineered wood real wood?
Yes. The visible surface is a layer of real hardwood; only the core beneath is made differently. It is not the same as laminate or vinyl, which only imitate wood.
Can engineered wood be sanded?
Yes, if the wear layer is thick enough. Around 4–6 mm usually allows two or three full sandings; very thin layers may not allow any.
Which is better with underfloor heating?
Engineered wood, as a rule. Its cross-layered core moves less with heat. Always stay within the manufacturer’s maximum surface temperature.
Does solid wood add more value to a home?
Buyers value a good real-wood floor either way. A well-made engineered floor with a thick wear layer is widely regarded as equivalent in quality.
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